UpgradedEaChine ex04
- How to calibrate and operate
- App to use:
- Link of where to buy:
- Manual
Comparison
Manufacturers
- Hubsan
- DJI
- Syma
Suggested Drones
DIY Drones
HOW TO BUILD A DRONE
- CONSTRUCT YOUR DRONE FROM SCRATCH
- A DEFINITIVE GUIDE FOR NEWBIES
- UAVfutures youtube channel
- HOW TO BUILD A DRONE | STEP BY STEP GUIDE
BASIC
- Drone: Synonymous with the term “quadcopter” or “UAV”. The term “drone” is generally reserved for unmanned aerial vehicles designed for military use.
- DIY: Stands for “Do-It-Yourself”, which in this case, means building a custom quadcopter by using different parts that may or may not have been originally designed for one another.
- UAV: Stands for “unmanned aerial vehicle” (of any kind).
MECHANICS
- Size: Usually provided in millimeters (e.g. 350mm), “size” represents the greatest point-to-point distance between two motors on a drone. Size can also help determine a drone’s “class” (mini, micro, etc.).
- CG: Stands for “Center of Gravity”, which is the point on the drone where weight is equally distributed on all sides (VERY important when learning how to build a drone).
- Dampener: Dampeners are small molded pieces of rubber used to minimize vibration throughout an RC drone.
- Frame: A drone’s frame is synonymous with a human being’s skeleton – it helps bring together important components, as well as provide protection.
- Landing Gear: For an RC drone to land without damaging fragile hardware, it must have landing gear. Unlike airplanes, which have wheels on their landing gear, RC drones utilizes plastic, metal, or rubber materials to help cushion landings.
- LED: To help orientate you to an RC drone’s location at night, it needs to have “Light Emitting Diodes”, or LEDs, on it.
- Prop Guards: Prop guards help protect your drone’s propellers from coming into contact with the external environment. They are also there to protect the operator (you).
- Shell: A drone’s “shell” is its outermost cover. Made from a variety of materials, it’s designed for aesthetic purposes (style) as well as functional purposes (proving protection from the elements). Depending on the shell’s shape, it can help the drone become more aerodynamic.
SENSORS
- Accelerometer: This sensor is designed to measure liner acceleration.
- Barometer: This sensor is designed to let the drone know how high above the ground it is. It does this by measuring pressure. Since air pressure changes with altitude, the drone can determine its own height with the help of a barometer.
- Gyroscope: A gyroscope is designed to measure angular acceleration on an x, y, or z axis. Basically, it’s responsible for allowing the drone to fly in a stable manner.
- GPS: Also known as a “Global Positioning System”, a GPS sensor allows satellites to pick up on a drone’s location so that the flyer (you) can do things like set specific coordinates for your drone to fly to, or even bring the drone back to its original staring location despite it not being in your field of sight.
TYPES
- RTF: Stands for “Ready-to-Fly”. It describes any RC quadcopter that comes with fully assembled with all of the parts and accessories required for flight.
- BNF: Stands for “Bind-and-Fly”. It describes any RC quadcopter that comes fully assembled WITHOUT a transmitter (you’ll need to choose a compatible transmitter to “bind” to the receiver on your drone).
- ATF: Stands for “Almost-Ready-to-Fly”. These drones don’t come fully assembled, and will require additional parts/accessories before they can be flown.
- Hexacoter: A UAV that has six motors/propellers.
- Multirotor: This term can be used to describe any aircraft that has multiple rotors.
- Octocopter: A UAV that has eight motors/propellers.
- Quadcopter: A UAV that has four motors/propellers.
- Tricopter: A UAV that has three motors/propellers.
PROPULSION
- ESC: Stands for “Electronic Speed Controller”, which is something that connects to the flight controller, motor, and battery, and helps mediate the speed by which the motors are rotating (you’ll learn a lot about these later on).
- Li-Po: Stands for “Lithium Polymer”, which is pretty much the universal battery type used to power RC drones. The reason why is because they’re lightweight (they won’t weigh the drone down) and are capable of releasing a lot of current.
- Motor: The motor is the part of the drone that rotates the propellers. Larger UAVs typically use “brushless” motors while smaller UAVs typically use “brushed” motors (you’ll learn about the differences between the two later on).
- PCB: Stands for “Printed Circuit Board”. This is a flat fiberglass part that has many different components soldered to it.
- Power Distribution: In order to power the different parts of an RC quadcopter, batter power must be shared, or “split”, to all those different devices. This is done with the help of a power distribution board. It takes the single negative and positive terminal from the drone’s battery and provides numerous other terminals (or connection points) throughout the drone so that other devices can receive power.
- Prop Adaptor: A prop adapter is the thin used to connect the drone’s motor to the propellers.
VIDEO
- FPV: Stands for “First Person View”. This is when you’re able to see a live video feed of what you’re drone’s camera is seeing while it’s recording.
- LCD: Stands for “Liquid Crystal Display”. It’s a type of screen used to display an image that’s coming in from a receiver.
- Gimbal: A gimbal is something that holds a camera during a flight, and allows it to deliver stable footage.
- GoPro: This is a popular sports/action camera that can be attached to RC drones with the proper mounts.
Taken from http://beginnerflyer.com/build-a-drone/
Video shortcuts
How to build $99 drone – detailed
- Step by step guide showing you how to build an AWESOME FPV racing drone for around $99. This build is SIMPLE, CHEAP and most of all results in a crazy fast FPV racing quadcopter with awesome performance at an even better price. . Giveaway is over. Congrats to user “Davo Johnson”
- GIVEAWAY details after component links.
- PARTS – things usually sell out after I make videos on them so I linked a ton of extra components below that people can use if something sells out.
- $99 BASE VERSION
- Frame – http://bit.ly/2npZVch
- ESCs – http://bit.ly/2nq6zzi
- Motors – http://bit.ly/2mv9h7z (other colour motors are linked below)
- PDB – http://bit.ly/2n9WZ17
- VTX (Base) – http://bit.ly/2mWTwCb
- FC (base version – naze rev 6) –http://bit.ly/2nqc3tF Strongly recommend upgrade version
- FPV camera (base) – http://bit.ly/2n9J0Zy
- Props (base) –http://bit.ly/2nUnXKj
- Upgrade version
- Frame – http://bit.ly/2npZVch
- ESCs – http://bit.ly/2nq6zzi
- Motors – http://bit.ly/2mv9h7z
- PDB – http://bit.ly/2n9WZ17
- VTX (upgrade) – http://bit.ly/2iF1bTB
- FC (upgrade version – SPF3) – http://bit.ly/2nqgWmx
- FPV camera (upgrade) – http://bit.ly/2naaZZ2
- Props (upgrade) –http://bit.ly/2myf2B4 but I love the cyclone props linked below
- $99 BASE VERSION
- IMPORTANT I know things sell out, A LOT and people might want other parts so there are some other links to new parts below. All of which will be great to build with. Some of the frames are especially cool for just a few $$ more.
- OTHER FRAMES
- Martian 3 frame- http://bit.ly/2dIKgwG
- Genius 215 – http://bit.ly/2mTx8sV
- Realacc x210 – http://bit.ly/2mXmdPn
- 210x – http://bit.ly/2nqznI1
- Martian 2 – http://bit.ly/2nUsMDs (very nice frame IMO)
- Pheonix – http://bit.ly/2nLWu0v
- XY215 SPLIT – http://bit.ly/2nqKsIT
- IX5 – http://bit.ly/2mXjrKe
- OTHER MOTORS
- Emax 2205 2600kv x 4 – http://bit.ly/2mXfsgN (very good motors)
- Racerstar 2205 2500kv black x 4 – http://bit.ly/2o7LqHg
- Racerstar 2205 2300kv blue x 4 – http://bit.ly/2mXfEwm
- Racerstar 2205 2600kv yellow x 4 – http://bit.ly/2mTv4Rv
- Racerstar 2205 2300kv purple x 4 – http://bit.ly/2nLR71o
- Racerstar 2205 2300kv pink x 4 – http://bit.ly/2nUFfak
- Eachine Wizard 2300kv x 1 – http://bit.ly/2na8GVD
- Brother hobby 2205 x 1 http://bit.ly/2mXzUy7
- Tornados – x 1 http://bit.ly/2nUzCIU
- OTHER ESCs – 30a or 20a means 30amp or 20amp
- 30a v2 x 4 – http://bit.ly/2nfXnNo
- 30a v2 lite x 4 – http://bit.ly/2nM53s8
- 20a Racerstar x 4 – http://bit.ly/2nFLmBT
- 20a 4in1 racerstar v2 x 1 – http://bit.ly/2nFZMSv
- 20a Littlebee Sx 1 – http://bit.ly/2mXrIhf
- 35a 4in1 Cicada – http://bit.ly/2mvwl5X
- 30a DYS XS – http://bit.ly/2mXyWBP
- 30A littlebee 4in1 – http://bit.ly/2o7FYnF
- 25a racerstar ESC x 1 – http://bit.ly/2nqwuH1
- 30a ZTW x 1 – http://bit.ly/2o82sVO
- OTHER FPV CAMERAS
- 700tvl cmos – http://bit.ly/2nqD3tc (nice form for easy fit)
- Runcam Swift – http://bit.ly/2nakSpw
- Runcam eagle – http://bit.ly/2nfPM1x
- Runcam owl – http://bit.ly/2nUKxCK
- Foxeer monster – http://bit.ly/2nfXvwd
- HS1177 – http://bit.ly/2mTB0dp (nice generic but good camera)
- 120 degree cam – http://bit.ly/2nqBXO8
- Wide angle – http://bit.ly/2nUGd69
- Aomway wide – http://bit.ly/2mXa3GA
- OTHER VTX’s
- Ft48x – http://bit.ly/2mTBobI
- Ts5823 – http://bit.ly/2o7S0xo 200mw
- Ts5828- http://bit.ly/2mvI8kD 600mw (might be too powerful for flying with others)
- Rush vtx – http://bit.ly/2mXAE6d
- Gx210 – http://bit.ly/2o82cpG
- Immersion RC 200mw – http://bit.ly/2nakszf
- VTX OSD mini – http://bit.ly/2nMgTT4 (has inbuilt OSD very cool)
- OTHER FLIGHT CONTROLLERS
- Omni f3 – http://bit.ly/2nfY2yi
- SPF3 – http://bit.ly/2mTEj3Y
- Evo – http://bit.ly/2nUxYat
- Omni f4 – http://bit.ly/2ng4p4F
- Eachine naze – http://bit.ly/2nMbXh6 – Only f1 board
- Generic f4 board – http://bit.ly/2mTH7y1
- OTHER PROPELLERS
- Dal v1 tri 2 pairs – http://bit.ly/2ng1jO1
- Fishbones 10 pairs – http://bit.ly/2o87mC3
- Dal V2 – http://bit.ly/2mvKikf (very hard to break)
- Dal Cyclone – http://bit.ly/2nUNXp4 (my personal Fav)
- POSSIBLE FPV GOGGLES
- Eachine goggle two – http://bit.ly/2mvB2wJ
- VR D2 – http://bit.ly/2nUxrFk
- Vr – 007 – http://bit.ly/2mTBhN6
- Fatshark dominator 3 – http://bit.ly/2nUF52n
- Fatshark attitude v3 – http://bit.ly/2nfVkc4
- Fatshark Dominator HDV3 – http://bit.ly/2mvosNW
Drone Components
FPV TX
General
ESC
Steps for building drone
Step 01 -Attach motors
Toggle Content
Step 02 – ESC mount
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Step 03 – ESC to motors